Embroidery hoops: All you need to know

16 July 2021

A quick and simple guide to embroidery hoops.

Mmm, I can’t lie. This won’t be ALL you need to know about embroidery hoops. But it will answer some of the questions I often get asked by people. Let’s get straight to it!

What are embroidery hoops used for?

Quite simply, embroidery hoops (or frames) are used to keep your fabric taught while you’re stitching. Whether you’re doing free embroidery or cross-stitch, they honestly make life (i.e. stitching life) so much easier. Embroidery hoops are also used to frame any kind of cloth or textile-based project. They’re finished off at the back so that the fabric doesn’t stick out the side and Bob’s your uncle.

Is an embroidery hoop necessary?

Many people have indeed embroidered without hoops but if you have one and get used to using it, you’ll see how much easier it is to create stitches that are neat and consistently the correct size and tension. So if you’re asking a nerd like me – yes, an embroidery hoop is necessary.

What can I use instead of an embroidery hoop?

I’m sure people have come up with innovative alternatives, but to be honest, I have no idea. What I will say is that if you’re reading this right now, chances are that you have access to an embroidery hoop. They’re an inexpensive investment and if you buy a good quality one, it can last for many years. If you find you loathe the sport, you can pass it on to someone else or donate it to a charity shop.

What size embroidery hoop should I use?

For me, the size of hoop I use depends on two things.

* The size of the fabric (not the size of design) I’m working with.

* The technique that’s used to stitch.

For me, an 18cm/7inch hoop works best. It means my fingers can reach the point where I’m stitching with ease. If you work with very big designs and use a hoop stand, this won’t apply. I never use a hoop stand because for me the joy of embroidery is travelling light (yup, and I take my embroidery EVERYWHERE with me!)

What’s the best type of embroidery hoop?

A better question might be : What’s the best type of embroidery hoop that I have access to? The reason I say that is because the majority of fabric shops and haberdasheries (especially in South Africa) only sell the cheaper hoops made of bamboo or plastic. While they’re fine “entry level” hoops, I don’t like working with them because I find them a bit flimsy and unstable. My original embroidery hoop that I’ve had for literally decades is a Klass & Gessmann/Hardwicke Manor which is a great quality brand and is also made of beechwood. However, I haven’t been able to find any of that particular brand in SA for years, which is why I import and stock my own range of beechwood hoops.

When you’re looking for a hoop to purchase, these are the things to consider:

Kind of wood: While the little bamboo ones are a great sustainable option (I use them for my workshops), they tend to splinter and the fit between the small and big ring is often uneven, which makes your fabric tension uneven. They also tend to warp fairly easily. Try and find an embroidery hoop that’s made from wood with a fine grain. The one’s I sell are made from beechwood, so they don’t splinter and the fabric doesn’t snag on them.

Kind of material: the plastic hoops are fine but not my favourite. I don’t like that they’re not sustainable and the bigger the hoop, the more flexible they are which makes them feel unstable and flimsy.

Kind of tension system: Although you get screw tension, flexihoops and spring tension (like springs that are used to keep weight plates in place on a barbell) – I prefer the screw tension system. Things to look out for regarding tension systems:

* That they don’t include nuts (which could potentially get lost.)

* That the screw has a grip or screwdriver groove which makes it easy to grip & adjust.

* That the screw is easy enough to turn (i.e. not to tight, even threading). * That the screw and metal is of good quality.

Extra Embroidery Hoop Hacks

Keep Adjusting

The more stitching you add to your piece, the thicker your fabric becomes – especially if you’re using thick thread or doing a stitch like French Knots. Your hoop hack is to remember to adjust your hoop size the more you stitch, and whenever you need to reposition you hoop.

It’s a wrap

One last tip. You can keep your fabric nice and tight (especially when using a wood hoop or a bamboo hoop that might not have a great fit) by wrapping the inner hoop with cotton twill tape. This is called binding your hoop, and it creates grip and friction which holds the fabric in place and prevents it from sliding around and losing tension. You’ll find cotton twill tape at most fabric shops and haberdasheries, as well as at some craft stores. NB! Don’t be tempted to use synthetic ribbon to do this – it’s too darn slippery!

Hope this has been a hoop of help.

Till next time nerds x